15 April 2008

Listening To The Water Lap Against The Shore Line In Malawi











Here I am sitting on an island in Malawi. The sound of the water purrs in the background and I am perched on a king sized bed looking out the bedroom window onto our private deck that falls away to our private beach. I’m in heaven and it all feels a bit surreal after four weeks of African camping.

Over the past two and a half weeks we have made our way up Mozambique and driven along a very rarely taken road. Zero tourist infrastructure in parts made for some interesting nights. One evening with nothing in sight we stayed in a local village – think grass huts, thatched roofs, chickens running around, hundreds of locals – we even had to ask the chief if we could stay the night!

Why were we driving in such hidden away places? Volker had the intrepid [crazy??] vision of getting to Malawi via a small town on the shores of Mozambiauqes side of Lake Niassa [a huge lake that sits between Moz & Malawi]. The Malawi side of the lake is quite touristy, while the mozambiqean side is the complete opposite. The roads are as dodgey as they come. Potholes galore. Bridges I wouldn’t want to walk on let alone take a 2tonne 4x4 across. 5 hours to go 80kms.
But one doesn’t mind going slow when you are passing through such amazing small villages and seeing such a completely different side of the world and humanity.
Volkers crazy idea of a route has certainly paid of – it is absolutely stunning on Likoma Island .. I’ve fallen in love with the place.

Later on today a small wooden boat owned by a local is coming to pick us up and we will head pack to Mozambique.

Hope all is well with everyone back home & others around the world.
Sending you loads of love and best wishes
Kirst
“Where you are, there you must be”








02 April 2008

South Africa, Zimbabwe, Mozambique

So, here I am driving down a dirt road in Mozambique.People on the streets wave and an energy buzzes from them. People tell you about the spirit of Africa, but I really 'got it' when we pulled off the side of the road and a few Zimbabweans came rushing up to the car and poured peanuts into my hands. No hidden agenda. Just exuberance and generosity. And the request to "please can we shake a white womans hand".
The rush out of Cape Town was hectic.
On my last day in Cape Town the place put on a real show.
My last morning saw my house robbed. Threatens of shootings. Cups of tea. Police. All was well. Just a soft shake to my feeling of safety in africa. Most probably a good thing to have happen before heading off on this journey.
My last afternoon: a city wide blackout while at the hairdressers. Quite amusing having Constantia mums [equiv of australia's Mosman mums] being wheeled out to the flurescent glow of the supermarket lights.
And then my last night: dinner and chats with my buddhist monk Pagpa.

I flew to Jo'Burg in South Africa with one hours sleep + with the advice from my chuaffer "when you find yourself in a new place, and feeling fear, dont think of it as fear, it is simply your senses adjusting to new surrounds on a very human instinctual basis".
Volker and his kitted up 4x4 picked me up from the airport and away we drove.

Over the past two weeks we have made our way through South Africa, Zimbabwe [we left the day before elections] and now we are sitting in Mozambique.

Getting into the swing of living out of a 4x4, sleeping in a roof top tent, and being on the move every day takes some getting use to. It's one hell of an adventure. Not a holiday. Hopefully in the next few weeks i'll have a few moments to sit down and write some of what i've been doing. But for now...I better just send all my love and best wishes to you.

And to answer most of the questions i'm getting.

Yes I'm safe.
Yes I'm loving it, and finding it hugely challenging.
No I havent shaved my head. Yet.
Yes I'm feeling very ALIVE and 24!

Ride it like you stole it
Love Kirst